June 17, 2015
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A pub with the right touch The biltmore bills itself as a gastropub, meaning a
bar that offers interesting food, too.In fact, the menu here is terrific.The
newton upper falls restaurant, which has been in existence in one form or
another since 1921, reopened about seven months ago. With its dark mahogany bar,
replica lighting, and pressed tin ceiling, the biltmore's bar area is
handsome.About 40 people can fit into this room, which has three tvs and can get
pretty lively, m and quite noisy, on game nights;Another 35 seats are in a more
sedate second room. Rebecca roth co owns the biltmore with a silent partner.The
kitchen is run by seth morrison, whom roth knows from perdix, where he was
cooking and she was pastry chef.Before perdix, morrison worked at east coast
grill.There are interesting tastes and textures on plates:A homemade pickle, a
smoky grilled vegetable, a little sauce.Morrison makes pickles from cucumbers,
zucchini, and onions;He likes potato salad creamy, slaw crunchy, coatings crisp.
A corn chowder($4)Is packed with cubes of potatoes, golden kernels, and milk.Ale
steamed mussels($9)Have a slightly buttery, ethereal sauce;The dish is garnished
with grilled toast from b artisan bread.The bakery also makes the chewy little
rolls that come with pats of butter wrapped in gold foil.On the appetizer
menu,"Baked ricotta bread" ($6)Begins with thick bread slices covered with pesto
and fresh ricotta, which is light and warm, topped with roasted, marinated
tomatoes. Roth is a schmoozer, walking around the dining room, chatting up
customers.At one point, she whips out cleaner to scrub tables after customers
leave. "I'm a little ocd,"She tells our party.But the team is also compulsive
about fresh ingredients.On the phone, roth says that produce comes from a.Russo
and sons, meat from john dewar co., fish from Captain Marden's Seafoods some of
the best suppliers in town.Here's how seriously this team takes its
food:Morrison shells and peels fava beans for succotash with slightly sweet slow
roasted pork shoulder. Cod in fish and chips(A bargain http://www.irmina.co.uk/ at $14)Is a big
hunk of fish, golden and crisp in its coating, white and moist when flaked.It
comes with a sea of fries, the house slaw, homemade tartar sauce, and a handful
of delightfully vinegary cucumber pickle slices.Burgers, too($10), are generous
and juicy.Order the crisp, outstanding sweet potato fries with it, some of the
very few things not made in house. Half roasted chicken under a brick($16)Comes
with milky steamed ralph Lauren corn, grilled zucchini
wedge, pickles, and slaw.This platter has everything, in just the right
proportions. Morrison is very good at this balance of textures, as you can see
in the grilled pound cake with blueberries($4), in which a slice of rich cake
has been browned on a griddle, then flooded with fresh blues cooked in a light
syrup, served with a spoonful of real whipped cream. It's a dead easy dessert
yet exciting.We're spooning up heaps of it when red sox first baseman kevin
youkilis hits ralph lauren uk stores a home run with
two men on base.The entire bar chants"Yooouk, yooouk, yooouk. "
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